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Truth or Consequences, New Mexico is a charmingly quirky village between Socorro and Las Cruces. Its sister village is Elephant Butte, where the giant otherworldly reservoir sprawls across a treeless vista.

My host’s next door neighbors keep a brood of egg-laying chickens. They like vegetables, but are not that fond of me. “We don’t come over here just to chat, lady. Where’s the treats? Cluck, cluck, cluck.”